Ueno Tenjin Festival

Overview

The Ueno Tenjin Festival is the grand annual autumn festival of Ueno Tenjingu Shrine (Sugawara Shrine) located in Iga City, Mie Prefecture. It is designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan and is registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. With a tradition spanning approximately 400 years, this festival features a magnificent procession of portable shrines (mikoshi), demon processions (oni-gyoretsu), and decorated floats (danjiri) through the city streets, centered on the Sunday closest to October 25th each year. A distinctive feature of this festival is that the demon procession and the floats parade together as attendants to the portable shrine, maintaining a unique form different from festivals like Kyoto's Gion Festival.

This festival developed as the Shinkosai (sacred procession) of Ueno Tenjingu Shrine, which enshrines Sugawara no Michizane. It was revived in 1660 with permission from the Todo clan, who ruled the Iga domain, and by 1662 the portable shrines began parading inside the castle's marunouchi (inner citadel). Subsequently, townspeople competed by devising elaborate displays, gradually forming the splendid procession seen today. During the festival period, the entire city center is enveloped in a festive atmosphere, attracting many visitors not only from the local area but also from neighboring prefectures such as Shiga, Kyoto, and Nara.

History and Origins

The origins of the Ueno Tenjin Festival date back to the old lunar calendar in September 1660 during the early Edo period. According to records, a request to revive the Tenjin Festival was submitted to the Todo clan in that year, and permission was granted, leading to the festival's revival. However, it is believed that a festival existed before this time, and the event is positioned as a revival after a period of interruption. Just two years after the revival, in 1662, the portable shrine began parading inside the castle's marunomaru, and it is said that the lord of the domain himself came to view the spectacle.

The formation of the demon procession (oni-gyoretsu) is estimated to date back to the Genroku era (1688-1704). According to records, in 1690, a text by the poet Doho Hattori mentions items associated with the procession. This is believed to be a reference to one of the celestial beings that appears in the current procession. The model for the demon procession was the practice of mountain asceticism on Mount Omine, based on the legend of En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo, who used demons as his attendants and commanded many of them.

On the other hand, the appearance of the floats (danjiri) is thought to date from the Horeki era (1751-1764) in the late 18th century. Records show that in 1756, Mukojima-cho presented a flower halberd, and in 1759, Naka-cho presented a sacred mountain. These mountain floats gradually developed, and their form became largely fixed during the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804-1830). A woodblock print from 1840 shows demon processions and floats that are almost identical to those seen today.

In the Meiji period, a grand millennium festival for Sugawara no Michizane was held in 1902, during which various displays from towns beyond the three main streets were presented alongside the demon procession and floats, making it an exceptionally grand event. On February 12, 2002, the festival was designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. Subsequently, in 2016, it was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage as one of the 33 events. Following this UNESCO registration, the festival schedule was changed starting in 2017 to center on the Sunday closest to October 25th.

Highlights

The Demon Procession One of the greatest highlights of the Ueno Tenjin Festival is the demon procession itself. This procession, presented by three towns known collectively as the Three Demon Association, represents the scene of En no Gyoja entering Mount Omine for ascetic training. At the head of the procession stands a large sacred staff weighing approximately 120 kilograms (over 30 kanme), said to be the largest of its kind in Japan. The procession includes evil demons, eight celestial beings, four celestial kings, En no Gyoja himself, a sendatsu guide, and hyorotsuki demons with their distinctive movements. This procession exudes a solemn atmosphere reminiscent of the austere rituals of Shugendo mountain asceticism.

The Procession of Chinzei Hachiro Tametomo The second demon procession, presented by Tokui-cho, represents the scene of Minamoto no Tametomo returning in triumph after defeating demons. Established around 1798, it is said to have originated when a retainer of the Todo clan used family traditions about Tametomo to create a costumed parade. The concept of Tametomo commanding demons creates a spectacle that is both valiant and humorous, drawing laughter from spectators. The leaping and cavorting of participants dressed as demons adds to the festive atmosphere.

The Unique Movements of the Hyorotsuki Demons Known as a specialty of the demon procession, the hyorotsuki demons are mountain ascetics carrying a bell, two large axes, and a backpack, who parade with distinctive movements. These movements, referred to as hyorotsuki, involve swinging long bamboo poles with paper streamers attached, mimicking important ritual implements used in Mount Omine ascetic practices. The unique motions of the hyorotsuki demons simultaneously express the severity of Shugendo training and the joy of the festival, attracting attention from many spectators. They are particularly popular among both children and adults.

The Nine Floats A total of nine floats, one from each of the nine towns along the main streets, parade through the city. The names of the floats are distinctive, each reflecting the history and character of its town. On top of the floats, festival music with origins traced to the Gion Festival is performed, filling the streets with the sounds of flutes, bells, and drums. The elaborate decorations and carvings of each float symbolize the splendor of the festival. The floats themselves are large wooden structures mounted on wheels, beautifully decorated and accompanied by musicians playing lively tunes.

The Festival Schedule and the Lottery Ceremony The order of the procession in the Ueno Tenjin Festival is determined by a lottery ceremony held at Ueno Tenjingu Shrine every year on September 9th. This ceremony marks the point at which each town begins its full-scale festival preparations, including intensive practice for the float music. The results of the lottery directly affect the enthusiasm of each town for the festival, creating a tense atmosphere during the ceremony. The towns vowing to try again the following year have become one of the festival's traditional sights.

The Eve Festival and Foot-Aligning Ceremony On the day before the main festival, the foot-aligning ceremony is held, during which the floats parade through their respective towns and the demon procession also performs its preliminary run. This day marks a significant increase in the festival's excitement as preparations reach their final stage. At night, the floats decorated with lanterns create a fantastical atmosphere, revealing a different beauty from the daytime. The unique charm of the evening procession captivates visitors.

The Grand Procession of the Shinkosai On the main festival day, the Shinkosai, a long procession led by two portable shrines, followed by the demon procession, town emblems, and floats, parades through the city. The portable shrines travel from the eastern sacred site on Kurumazaka Street along the main street to the western sacred site on Koizaka Street, where a midday ceremony is held. In the afternoon, the procession travels along Second and Third Main Streets before returning to the main shrine. On this day, which marks the climax of the festival, up to 100,000 worshippers visit from the entire Iga region and beyond, turning the city center into a pedestrian paradise. Stalls line the streets, and the castle town of Iga Ueno is at its most vibrant.

Event Information and Access

1. Official Name: Ueno Tenjin Festival (Oni Danjiri Gyōji)
2. Date: Three days centered on the Sunday closest to October 25th annually (with preliminary events the night before and the eve of the festival). However, the main ritual is held on October 25th itself. Please check the official website for the latest schedule and cancellation information.
3. Organizers: Ueno Tenjingu Shrine / Ueno Bunka Bijutsu Hozonkai (Ueno Cultural and Artistic Preservation Society)
4. Rail Access: Take the Iga Railway from either Iga-Kobe Station on the Kintetsu Osaka Line or Iga-Ueno Station on the JR Kansai Main Line, and get off at Uenoshi Station. The festival venue is within walking distance from the station.
5. Highway Bus Access: Direct highway buses operated by Mie Kotsu depart from Nagoya, taking approximately 90 minutes from the Meitetsu Bus Center to Iga Ueno. From Osaka, the Kintetsu train is the convenient option.
6. Car Access: The city center is about 10 minutes from either the Nakaze IC or Ueno IC on the Meihan National Highway. However, large-scale traffic restrictions are in effect during the festival, so public transportation is strongly recommended. Parking is extremely limited, so early arrival or advance parking reservation is advised.

Nearby Attractions

Iga Ueno Castle, the symbol of the city, is located at the heart of the area where the Ueno Tenjin Festival takes place. This castle was built by the famous architect Tōdō Takatora and boasts the highest castle walls in Japan. During the festival period, viewing the procession from within the castle grounds offers an excellent photo opportunity, with the contrast between the castle and the festival against the autumn leaves captivating visitors. Additionally, the castle features exhibits on ninja, allowing visitors to experience the history of the region as a home of the Iga ninja.

For those who wish to learn more about the history of the Ueno Tenjin Festival, a visit to the Danjiri Kaikan is recommended. This facility features three actual floats and a recreated demon procession on display, allowing visitors to experience the festival's excitement year-round. Detailed explanatory panels are installed throughout the building, making it easy for first-time visitors to understand the background of the festival. The official Iga City tourism website also provides the latest festival information and introduces surrounding tourist attractions.

The Iga region is also famous worldwide as the birthplace of the ninja, with numerous facilities where visitors can experience ninja culture. Additionally, the area is known as the birthplace of the haiku poet Matsuo Basho. Before or after the festival, visitors can also enjoy local specialties such as Iga beef and visits to local sake breweries, making it possible to fully appreciate Iga's culture for an entire day.

Related Information

1. Official Website: Official site providing the latest event schedules and traffic information.
2. Ueno Cultural and Artistic Preservation Society: The organization that operates the festival. Inquiries can be sent to the official email address.
3. Iga Ueno Tourism Association: Offers tourism information and detailed access information. Telephone inquiries are also accepted.
4. Iga City Official Tourism Website: Features a special page on the Ueno Tenjin Festival.
5. National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property: Designated on February 12, 2002.
6. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: Registered in 2016 as one of the 33 events.
7. Danjiri Kaikan (Float Hall): A facility exhibiting actual floats and the demon procession.
8. Official Facebook Page: Provides timely updates on festival gossip and whether the event will be held depending on weather conditions.

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