Himemiya Shrine

Overview

Himemiya Shrine is a shrine located in Koma, Shimoda City, Shizuoka Prefecture. Situated in the Kamo area of the southern Izu Peninsula, known for its mild climate and beautiful coastline, it enshrines the deity Iwahime-no-Mikoto. It is the candidate shrine identified with the Iwahime-no-Mikoto Shrine of Kamo District, Izu Province, listed in the Engishiki Jimmyocho, the register of official shrines compiled in the Heian period, and is known as a shrine of ancient lineage. Its former shrine rank was village shrine (sonsha). Though it is a small shrine standing quietly on a hillside at the edge of a settlement, its history reaches back into antiquity, and it has long been protected and handed down by local people. Its annual festival is held each November, and it still gathers faith as the local guardian deity. Unlike grand shrines bustling as tourist sites, its quiet precincts carry the serene air unique to an ancient shrine.

History and Origins

The exact date of Himemiya Shrine's founding is unclear, but because it is the candidate shrine for a shrine listed in the Heian-period Engishiki Jimmyocho, its history is thought to reach back at least to before the Heian period. The rank of shikinaisha is important here. The shikinaisha are shrines recorded in the Jimmyocho, the register of deities within the Engishiki, the detailed regulations of the ritsuryo legal codes compiled in 927. To be listed in the Jimmyocho means a shrine was officially recognized by the court of the time and made an object of state ritual, a shrine of proper lineage. Some 2,800 shrines nationwide, and many in Izu Province centered on Kamo District, are listed; that Himemiya Shrine is identified with the Iwahime-no-Mikoto Shrine tells us a deity of standing was already enshrined in this area by the Heian period.

Furthermore, Himemiya Shrine is also considered one of the candidate shrines for the Ametsukatahime Shrine, likewise a shikinaisha. A candidate shrine (ronsha) is one proposed when it cannot be determined which present-day shrine corresponds to a shrine recorded in the Jimmyocho. That a single shrine becomes the subject of discussion as the candidate for multiple shikinaisha is itself evidence that it has been an important place of faith since ancient times.

The enshrined deity, Iwahime-no-Mikoto, is a goddess deeply connected to the land of Izu. From the southern Izu Peninsula to the Izu Islands, a distinctive faith centered on Mishima Daimyojin (Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto) spread, and shrines enshrining his consort and child deities are scattered throughout. Iwahime-no-Mikoto is regarded as part of this lineage of Izu deities and has borne a part of the faith world unique to Izu, surrounded by sea and islands. Records remain from the Edo period, and it is said construction of the shrine building was carried out in the Enpo era (latter half of the 17th century). There are records of construction in the Keian era as well; through long years of repeated rebuilding and construction, it has watched over the lives of people as the local guardian deity.

Highlights

The greatest highlight of Himemiya Shrine is its ancient lineage as a shikinaisha and the quiet appearance of the shrine that conveys it. The shrine building, enshrined on a hillside at the edge of the settlement, stands quietly in tree-surrounded precincts at the top of the approach. In contrast to large shrines bustling with tourists, here remains the simple form of faith continuing unbroken from antiquity. Standing in the precincts, one is enveloped in the serene air that conveys the flow of time, unique to an ancient shrine recorded in the Heian-period register. Even without showy buildings or a great torii gate, the weight of more than a thousand years of history brings deep emotion to those who visit.

Another highlight is the story of the faith unique to Izu surrounding the deity Iwahime-no-Mikoto. As noted, from the southern Izu Peninsula to the Izu Islands, shrines enshrining Mishima Daimyojin and his consort and child deities are distributed like a net. This reflects a distinctive mythological world tied to the geography of Izu, where islands are said to have been born one after another by volcanic activity. Himemiya Shrine bears a part of this faith sphere, and rather than viewing it alone, placing it within the connections of the deities of all Izu deepens one's understanding of its meaning. As a candidate and disputed shrine for the shikinaisha, it is of interest to those who study shrine history and the Engishiki, and it is an ancient shrine well worth seeing for history lovers.

Event Information and Access

The annual festival of Himemiya Shrine is held in November (said to be November 1 and 2). Rather than a festival with gorgeous floats or large processions, it is carried on quietly but carefully by local people as the festival of the local guardian deity, a simple and solemn rite preserving an ancient form of faith.

For access, the gateway is Izukyu-Shimoda Station, the terminus of the Izukyu Line. From Shimoda Station, head toward the Minami-Izu area by bus or car to reach the settlement of Koma. As the shrine is located on a hillside at the edge of the settlement, it is a walk from the nearest bus stop. Since public transportation is limited in parts of the southern Izu Peninsula, it is best to check bus times and routes carefully in advance. As this is a place of local life and faith, it is important to visit quietly and with respect when worshiping. As the exact festival dates and times may differ from year to year, confirming through local information is advisable.

Around the Area

The Shimoda City area where Himemiya Shrine is located is a leading tourist destination of the southern Izu Peninsula. Shimoda is known nationwide as the stage of history where the Black Ships arrived at the end of the Edo period and Japan took its first steps toward opening the country. In the city center, sites associated with Perry and facilities conveying the history of the opening are scattered, and old temples connected to the opening era, such as Ryosenji and Hofukuji, remain. It is a venerable port town visited by people from Japan and abroad who enjoy historical strolls.

There are many seaside attractions as well. Beginning with Kisami Ohama, beautiful with white sand, beaches boasting some of Izu's clearest waters spread throughout the Minami-Izu area, bustling in summer with many swimmers and surfers. Shirahama Shrine, also called the oldest shrine in Izu, is popular as an ancient shrine near the coast, and together with Himemiya Shrine one can enjoy a tour of Izu's ancient shrines. From Cape Irozaki at the peninsula's southern tip, magnificent views of the Pacific open up, and together with Shimoda's hot springs, this is a region where nature and history can be fully enjoyed. A journey to visit ancient shrines like Himemiya Shrine will be a quiet and rich time of touching the deep history and faith of southern Izu.

Related Information

Details on Himemiya Shrine can be found in research materials on Engishiki shrines and in local government and shrine-related information. This shrine is the candidate shrine for the shikinaisha Iwahime-no-Mikoto Shrine of Kamo District, Izu Province, listed in the Engishiki Jimmyocho, and is a precious shrine conveying the faith of Izu continuing from antiquity. From the southern Izu Peninsula to the Izu Islands, many shikinaisha connected to the Mishima faith are distributed, and Himemiya Shrine is one of them, an important presence for understanding the region's history and faith. Visiting these ancient shrines one by one and tracing the connections and lineages of their deities, the distinctive mythological world that the land of Izu has nurtured comes into view. When visiting ancient shrines, one should bear in mind that these are places of faith long and carefully protected by local people, and worship with respect.

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